1. Retinol and retinoids
Retinol is a form of vitamin A. It belongs to a family of ingredients called retinoids, which encourage skin cell turnover — the process by which the skin renews itself. With consistent use, retinol may improve the appearance of fine lines, skin texture, and uneven tone.
What the research says
Retinol is among the most studied topical skincare ingredients. Multiple published studies have shown improvements in skin texture and the appearance of fine lines with regular use over months. It is not a quick fix — results typically take 8–12 weeks to become noticeable, and the skin must adjust to the ingredient first.
How to introduce retinol
- Start with the lowest available concentration — 0.025% to 0.1%.
- Use it just once or twice a week to begin with, on evenings when your skin is dry (not freshly washed).
- Slowly increase frequency over several weeks as your skin tolerates it.
- Always use SPF the following morning. Retinol increases skin sensitivity to sun exposure.
Retinol caution
Retinol is not suitable for use during pregnancy. If you are pregnant or trying to conceive, avoid retinol and all retinoids. Bakuchiol (see below) is a frequently discussed plant-based alternative, though it has far less research behind it. Always check with your doctor or midwife.
Who it may suit: Most adult skin types with a careful, slow introduction. Particularly useful for fine lines, texture, and dull tone.
Who should be cautious: Very dry or sensitive skin, anyone with active eczema or rosacea, and those pregnant or breastfeeding. If in doubt, speak to a dermatologist.
2. Peptides
Peptides are short chains of amino acids — the building blocks of proteins like collagen and elastin. In skincare, they are used to support skin structure, firmness, and texture. They are generally considered well tolerated, including by sensitive skin.
The research on peptides is growing, though it is not as extensive as retinol research. They are considered a good option for those who cannot tolerate retinol or who want a gentler active ingredient.
Who it may suit: Most skin types, including sensitive. Often used in moisturisers, serums, and eye creams.
Who should be cautious: Few known concerns. If you have very reactive skin, introduce one product at a time.
3. Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a molecule that occurs naturally in the skin and can hold many times its weight in water. Topically, it is used to attract moisture to the skin, improving hydration and making fine lines appear less visible when skin is well moisturised.
Hyaluronic acid is not an active ingredient in the same way retinol is — it doesn't change skin cell behaviour. But it is one of the most effective hydrating ingredients available and is suitable for almost all skin types.
How to use: Apply to slightly damp skin (after cleansing, before moisturiser) for best results. In very dry climates or during cold winters, seal it with a moisturiser so it doesn't draw moisture from the skin itself.
Who it may suit: All skin types. Excellent for dehydrated or dry skin.
4. Vitamin C
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is an antioxidant that helps protect the skin from environmental stress, and may support a more even skin tone over time. It is often recommended for morning use, before SPF.
Vitamin C is notoriously unstable and can degrade quickly in the presence of light, air, and water. Look for products in opaque, airtight packaging, and check that the vitamin C concentration is clearly stated. A common effective range is 10–20% ascorbic acid.
Who it may suit: Most skin types. Particularly useful for those with pigmentation or dull skin tone.
Who should be cautious: Vitamin C at high concentrations can cause tingling. Those with very sensitive skin may prefer stabilised alternatives like ascorbyl glucoside, which is gentler.
5. Niacinamide
Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3. It is one of the most versatile and well-tolerated ingredients in skincare. It supports the skin barrier, may help with the appearance of pores and uneven tone, and has hydrating properties. It works alongside most other skincare ingredients without causing conflicts.
Who it may suit: All skin types. Especially useful for oily, combination, or acne-prone skin, as well as those with uneven tone.
Who should be cautious: Very high concentrations (above 10%) may cause flushing or irritation in a small number of people. Most products use 2–5%, which is well tolerated.
6. Ceramides
Ceramides are lipids (fats) that are naturally present in the skin barrier. They help hold skin cells together and prevent moisture loss. As skin ages or is damaged, ceramide levels can deplete — leading to dryness, sensitivity, and an impaired barrier. Ceramide-rich moisturisers can help restore and reinforce the barrier.
Who it may suit: Particularly useful for dry, sensitive, or mature skin. Also helpful for skin recovering from over-exfoliation or active ingredient overload.
Who should be cautious: Rarely cause problems. One of the gentlest skincare ingredients available.
7. Glycerin
Glycerin is a humectant — a substance that draws water into the skin from the environment and lower skin layers. It is one of the most common and effective hydrating ingredients in skincare, and appears in many moisturisers, serums, and cleansers. It is gentle, non-irritating, and widely compatible with other ingredients.
Who it may suit: All skin types.
8. Sunscreen ingredients
SPF moisturisers use either mineral (physical) filters, chemical (organic) filters, or a combination. Understanding the difference helps you choose a product that suits your skin type and preferences.
Mineral filters (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide)
Sit on the skin surface and reflect UV rays. Often recommended for sensitive skin and those who prefer to avoid chemical filters. Can leave a white cast on darker skin tones, though newer formulations have improved significantly.
Chemical (organic) filters
Absorb UV energy and convert it. Tend to be more cosmetically elegant and less likely to leave a white cast. Examples include avobenzone, octocrylene, tinosorb. Suitable for most skin types.
Key point: Whatever SPF you choose, using it consistently every morning is far more important than the specific filter type.
9. AHAs and exfoliating acids
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic acid and lactic acid are chemical exfoliants. They help remove dead skin cells from the surface, which can improve texture, brightness, and the appearance of fine lines over time.
Use with care
AHAs increase sun sensitivity. Always use SPF when using AHAs in your routine. Avoid using AHAs on the same night as retinol until you are experienced with both. Over-exfoliation can damage the skin barrier — less is often more.
Who it may suit: Those with dull skin, uneven texture, or fine lines who can tolerate light exfoliation. Lactic acid is generally gentler than glycolic acid and often better for sensitive skin.
Who should be cautious: Sensitive skin, active rosacea, or barrier-compromised skin. If you notice persistent redness or burning, reduce frequency or stop.
10. Bakuchiol
Bakuchiol is a plant-derived ingredient that has attracted attention as a potential gentler alternative to retinol. Some studies suggest it may produce similar improvements in fine lines and texture, though the evidence base is much smaller than for retinol and study sizes have generally been small.
It is frequently discussed as an option for those who cannot tolerate retinol — including during pregnancy (though always check with your doctor before using any skincare ingredient during pregnancy, as bakuchiol research in this context is limited).
Who it may suit: Those who find retinol too irritating, or who prefer plant-based ingredients. Those pregnant or breastfeeding should consult a healthcare professional.
11. Antioxidants
Antioxidants are ingredients that help neutralise free radicals — unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors that can contribute to skin ageing. Vitamin C, vitamin E, niacinamide, and green tea extract are common skincare antioxidants.
They work best when used consistently and in combination with SPF. Antioxidants can help protect against ongoing environmental damage, though they do not reverse existing damage.
Who it may suit: Everyone, especially those in urban environments or with regular sun exposure.